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Remove of Eunice sp. bristleworm

12 Oct


Now it got me. After my tank ran perfectly for years, I noticed lately overnight disappearance of Zoanthus, disc anemones, soft corals and SPS. One night, the light was out, I saw him – a huge Eunice bristleworm with a minimum of 80cm lying across the sandbed. With a Eheim-tong I tried to take him directly – had him – but it was cut through in the middle and so I was only able to remove only 40cm long piece. The rest (with head) fled. I learned that Eunice worms are really fast …  

I spend some nights watching… identified two caves, between which he traveled each night. Over the last years I had always noticed that stones, shells and coral branches were dragged into the live rock. He has closed the entrance and exits. Eunice worms are extremely fast, light sensitive and come rarely completely out of the cave. I spend around 2 weeks – always after about 1 hour after turning off the light it went our of the cave.  

How can you remove a Eunice sp. worm? After my research, almost all who have discovered that worm in their aquarium, gave up hunting but removed the liverock including the worm. If your don’t get the chance to catch it by chance, there is no way to catch him. As stress response and to preserve life it splits up in pieces very easily, which Likewise traps are not working. Only in one case it worked – here: I built a similar trap, but gave up.


The end of the worm: Ultimately, I decided to remove a liverockpillar. Took it out, smashed the rock, removed the worm and reconstructed the reef.

Covering the reef tank with glass – after 5 months!

13 Feb

Many know the problem: An open marine aquarium is usually desired – that looks good, saves time in maintenance and the corals get direct and unfiltered LED light.

But there’s another problem, especially in winter: gray mold due to high humidity!

Depending on the direction of the flow and thus movement of the surface of the water I needed temporarily 5l of ROI water per day and therefore had a very high humidity of about 70%.

After long consideration – first I wanted plexiglas or acrylic glass because of the price – I decided to cover the tank with glass. So I bought 5mm glass in 3 parts to make handling easier.

Skizze Glasabdeckung Aquarium

At my tank with a lenght of 130cm I took 3 parts in lengths 20cm, 60cm and 46cm to have …READ MORE

Chris Reef

18 Feb

My tank has developed significantly over the last months – have a look!


New tank video: Schwings reef after 2 years

15 Jan

Today I am proud to present you a new video of my 500l reef tank aquarium. This time I focused on the inhabitants of my SPS- and LPS reef with many makro shots of corals.
After I had a bad tank crash in June 2013, I’m now back with the grow rate and colors, which I had before. But the tank really needed 2-3 months to recover.

Have fun watching and I’m looking forward to your comments!
Best: Open directly in Youtube and change resolution to HD!

PS: Because many of you asked Here you can download my current Ecotech Radion Schedule


Update to Schwings Reef

24 Oct

After a long timne, here are new pictures of my 500l tank.

With my brandnew Olympus OM-D M5, I tried to make some beautiful shots. Unfortunately, it is really difficult to shoot under LED lightening and get the right camera parameters. Here are some first impressions:





Update Chris Reef

12 Aug

I’d like to share some new pictures and updates from my tanks.




New sump setup at Schwings Reef

31 Jul

There’s a new sump setup of Schwings Reef.

After the crash of my middle pillar, the nitrate level has unfortunately leveled around 15 mg/l, so I have now added a zeolite filter. Previously I had some zeolite in a fluidized bed filter, which was impractical because the zeolite was covered with bacteria films after some days.

 I now have the following setup in the sump:

1. Water from the main tank reaches the first section -> NYOS skimmer.

2. Water flows into the second section (frag section). It is illuminated with 2x 12W Aqua Medic sunspots, flow is provided by a Koralia Nano.

3. The water flows over into the third section.

  • Return pump into the display tank by NYOS Viper 2.0
  • Calcium reactor, water flows trough and back into the 1st section.
  • Second NYOS Viper 2.0 pump, which pumps the water from the third section once through the zeolite filter and once through the PO4 adsorber fluidized bed filter. Via a ball valve before the fluidized bed filter (adsorber), the flow is regulated precisely. All the rest flows through the zeolite filter. Both outlets end near the skimmer to eliminate any abrasion and bacteria films directly. The water leaves near the skimmer to eliminate any abrasion of the adsorber and bacterial movies directly.

Here is a picture of the setup:


Just installed third Radion Pro!

2 Jul

Sure you have to justify yourself, if you put more than 3,000 € lighting over your tank. But I’m thrilled by the Ecotech Marine Radion Pro. Compared to T5 or HQI, the water looks alive, the colors are impressive … the corals grow well. Not excessively, but they grow. The settings are perfect. Currently, my tank’s going to stabilize after the crash a few weeks ago, which was really hard for the whole biology.

Yesterday I installed the third Radion Pro. That had especially illuminating reasons, as I had the the two lamps running at only 65% anyway. One problem is my reef scape. Because of the three pillars I had illumination problems in left and right corner. With another reef scape two would fit perfectly. See Chris Reef, which does very well with one LED panel at 80cm x 60cm. Since I am planning to go bigger in the future anyway, I have now bought another lamp.

The three lamps are fitted with 2x and 2x Long Rail Kit suspension.

Here’s to import the new graph and Schedule!

And a quick iPhone shot – I’ll keep you up to date:


Here’s the cycle schedule download for 3 Radion Pro (max. Intensity at 50%) – Download Schedule


Tank crash and rebuilding

28 Jun

About 6 weeks ago I broke the middle pillar at an unsuitable position. I could no longer secure it in position. So I decided to do a complete removal of the live rock in the middle and right part. Also I wanted to remove a big black sponge, which spread over the live rock.

I took the coral from the stones out and brushed it off to clean the stones of the sponge. Then I built the pillar up step by step again.

Here’s the disaster picture:



Coral Food – How to feed SPS and LPS corals and basic on stony corals

13 May

Because many of you asked via Email, we combined the three articles about the feeding of LPS and SPS corals into one guide! We’d love to get your experiences about coral feeding in our comments. Happy reefing!

Basics about coral feeding

Most of the SPS and LPS corals except some azoo-corals primarily live by sunlight. Corals that are mostly living in shallow do this by implementing unicellular symbiotic algae into their structure. By doing photosynthesis, the resulting sugar is then used as an energy source by the coral.

In their natural environment, corals are mostly established in very low-nurtrient water – but, like most algae, the symbiotic algeas need somewhat higher nitrate and phosphate levels to survive. So over the millions of years, the corals developed another source for energy – the coral polyps that can actively catch plankton, which is mostly micro- and zooplankton.

Read full article